we risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and the selves to our judgement.
we thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and read.
but the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is more meaningful than our criticism designating it so.
but there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new.
the world is often unkind to new talent, new creations - the new needs friends.
earlier today, i experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source.
to say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement.
they have rocked me to my core.
in the past, i have made no secret for my disdain for mexican food.
there was a famous chef, gusteau, if you will, who had his motto: anyone can cook.
but i realize, only now do i truly understand what he meant.
not everyone can become a great artist; but a great artist can come from anywhere.
it is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at taqueria jalisco, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than one of the best chefs in san antonio.
i will be returning there soon, hungry for more.
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